there is no comas on this keyboard!

I have come to the conclusion that I am a gluton for punishment. Like most conclusions of this sort it did not hit me all at once but dawned on me gradually over the last 10 days. having so much time alone with my thoughts with only Rocanate to affer an opinion which although he is a very astute bicycle a bicycle he remains. conclusions are slow in coming if at all so it was with some relief that I concluded at least one in the past fortnight.

It was while I was returning to over 3000m and 7km away from the Tibetan border that this notion first announced itself to my cerebrium. The last 10 days contained a demoralising amount of descents and when you are ascending to 3400m from about sealevel it equates to a horrific amount of climbing . Even yesterday as the road followed a youthful Ganga down to Rishikesh (my current abode) Indian engineers deemed it fit to stick in a 20km climb. at km 70 of my 120km day I was needless to say unimpressed. As I was struggling through 10.20.30 and even 40km straight climbs over mostly diabolical roads while novilty airhorns were continually trying to make me deaf from the passing trucks for the first time an evil voice in the back of my mind spoke up "get a bus" it whispered maliciously. of course refusal was my reply but he persisted and it took all my bike-ho attitude to get me here without using a four wheeled beast. The resulting conclusion was easier to come across. I need a break!

But the last 10 days despite the almost relentless climbs. bad roads. heat and ear piercing horns have been glorious. A pilgramage route in India must be the gretest path to follow on a bicycle. I shared meals and conversations with babas who dotted the route with brilliant orange and recounted Kim-esque tales of their nomadic lives. On two occasions truck loads of sikhs pilgramiging from the Punjab hailed me over to enjoy a delicious roadside Thali prepared in their truck. to interrogate me in the blunt Indian manner ( by the end I was starting to believe that 24 is very old not to be married and went through a list in my head of possible wives!) and posing (always helmeted) for their latest in camera phone technology. It is hard to get used to see a fully garbed long bearded Sikh looking the same as his fore-fathers did remove a trendy nokia phone from his cotton folds. Being on a bicycle and struggling I believe promotes a better relationship with the pilgrims and not once did I have a babas tiffin box dangled my way in hope of a few ruppees contribution. they all just seemed to want to share.

The scenery as I hope the photos will somewhat portray was astounding and for the first time on my trip 7000m plus mountains were deshrouded of their clouded masks an revealled their full splendour to me. Badrinath. the furthest I reached was in easy hiking distance to the view of three such peaks. this coupled with the towns huge religios importance with hot springs flowing in to the white watered Ganga beside a splendidly colourful and ornate temple made it a great place to pass a few days and converse with pilgrims of all castes and heritage.

Rishikesh so far seems the perfect place for a weeks rest and with yoga couses a plenty. a weeks top up course maybe in order. If my feet get itchy in the next few days. rather then packing my bags as usual I may resort to just a good scratch.

The charming man from the internet cafe has just removed my camera usb form the computer and told me its not allowed so photos will be uploaded at a later time.